Our old friend, Dina Lofthouse, who was born in Anghistri said one day, "A lot of people love my little island, don't they?" This said it all. For some years Pauline and I had experienced the let down of the British climate at holiday time. After three soggy weeks in Cornwall in 1986 Pauline snapped and said she was only going to consider holidays in the sun. We had heard a lot about Greece and so we chose Corfu in 1987 to see if we liked Greece. We did. The following year we came to Anghistri for the first time and then kept coming back.
On arrival in the village of Megalohori (or Mylos) I was wooed by the traditional houses and that was the net in which I was caught. Returning to Anghistri is about saying "Hello" to your friends each time. The people remember you and welcome you back. That is priceless! The warmth of the welcome and its sincerity are wonderful.
The island is pine-covered with four settlements: Megalohori (meaning "the great place"), Scala (meaning "ladder" after the arrangements for getting in and out of the old ferries on the beach there), Metochi and Limenaria. These are connected by a number of basic roads - some better than others. There is a bus service by way of a new larger bus that meets the hydrofoils that arrive in Mandraki harbour for Mylos. Passengers for Scala get on here and take a mile long ride to their accommodation.
These days there are many more cars than in 1988 - in high season it is possible to be blocked in! A tourist road train operates day and night, running from Scala to Limenaria via Mylos. On occasion I have seen it deputise for the bus and meet the hyudrofoils at Mylos. The island is very small and a fit person can walk anywhere with ease. The population is about 700 without summer visitors, so everyone knows everyone. The locals walk from house to house to see friends whenever they are free. Any evening you can see people being visited by friends and family.
Accommodation abounds in Scala where the tourist is best catered for with tavernas, cafes, sunbeds etc. A car ferry calls each day so it is possible to get there by driving if you are mad enough to fancy a trip across Europe to get here. A fast local ferry runs between Anghistri and its larger neighbour, Aegina, where you can get a ferry down the Pelopponese coast to Methana on the mainland and the island of Poros. This local ferry starts in Mandraki and calls in at Scala before crossing over to Aegina.
There are water taxis at Mandraki and Scala and it is possible to take a trip almost anywhere by this means. All you do is ring the number of the water taxi owner and if he is free you can speed over the water to a numbner of places. It is fun to use this service and enjoy zipping across the waves with the driver bouncing up and down on his special saddle type seat!
If you fancy getting about the island a little faster than walking speed you can hire a scooter for a day, a week, a fortnight or whatever. I can recommend my friend Paniotis Logothetis (known as Taki) who rents scooters and push bikes in Megalohori. He is the nicest guy I have ever met and we get on marvellously! Taki also owns and operates the only service station on the island. There you can see his pint size fuel tanker in which he supplies the boats who call at the island as well as central heating fuel out of season.
As I said earlier, the roads are basic and therefore need drivers to take care along them. Some are better than others and you need to watch out for a sudden change in quality as you drive around. For me there is no better ride than to go from Megalohori across to Aponisos via Limenaria. You ride through pine trees with a strong scent of the resin that flavours the Greek wine, Retsina. There are many views through the trees over the sea to the mainland and a photographer will be well rewarded.
Of course fire is a very real danger with such hot and dry summers. You need to be careful not to throw cigarette ends into tinder-dry grass because you could cause the whole island to go up in flames. Sitting in any taverna you can see the island firefighters in their fire engine slowly driving around the island, ready to put out any fire that threatens. At night these patrols are made with the red lights flashing as the machine is driven along! Take the road to Limenaria at lunchtime and you will catch the fire crew having lunch in the shade of the trees around the tiny church of Santa Barbara! Take a look at the photo above!
On arrival in the village of Megalohori (or Mylos) I was wooed by the traditional houses and that was the net in which I was caught. Returning to Anghistri is about saying "Hello" to your friends each time. The people remember you and welcome you back. That is priceless! The warmth of the welcome and its sincerity are wonderful.
The island is pine-covered with four settlements: Megalohori (meaning "the great place"), Scala (meaning "ladder" after the arrangements for getting in and out of the old ferries on the beach there), Metochi and Limenaria. These are connected by a number of basic roads - some better than others. There is a bus service by way of a new larger bus that meets the hydrofoils that arrive in Mandraki harbour for Mylos. Passengers for Scala get on here and take a mile long ride to their accommodation.
These days there are many more cars than in 1988 - in high season it is possible to be blocked in! A tourist road train operates day and night, running from Scala to Limenaria via Mylos. On occasion I have seen it deputise for the bus and meet the hyudrofoils at Mylos. The island is very small and a fit person can walk anywhere with ease. The population is about 700 without summer visitors, so everyone knows everyone. The locals walk from house to house to see friends whenever they are free. Any evening you can see people being visited by friends and family.
Accommodation abounds in Scala where the tourist is best catered for with tavernas, cafes, sunbeds etc. A car ferry calls each day so it is possible to get there by driving if you are mad enough to fancy a trip across Europe to get here. A fast local ferry runs between Anghistri and its larger neighbour, Aegina, where you can get a ferry down the Pelopponese coast to Methana on the mainland and the island of Poros. This local ferry starts in Mandraki and calls in at Scala before crossing over to Aegina.
There are water taxis at Mandraki and Scala and it is possible to take a trip almost anywhere by this means. All you do is ring the number of the water taxi owner and if he is free you can speed over the water to a numbner of places. It is fun to use this service and enjoy zipping across the waves with the driver bouncing up and down on his special saddle type seat!
If you fancy getting about the island a little faster than walking speed you can hire a scooter for a day, a week, a fortnight or whatever. I can recommend my friend Paniotis Logothetis (known as Taki) who rents scooters and push bikes in Megalohori. He is the nicest guy I have ever met and we get on marvellously! Taki also owns and operates the only service station on the island. There you can see his pint size fuel tanker in which he supplies the boats who call at the island as well as central heating fuel out of season.
As I said earlier, the roads are basic and therefore need drivers to take care along them. Some are better than others and you need to watch out for a sudden change in quality as you drive around. For me there is no better ride than to go from Megalohori across to Aponisos via Limenaria. You ride through pine trees with a strong scent of the resin that flavours the Greek wine, Retsina. There are many views through the trees over the sea to the mainland and a photographer will be well rewarded.
Of course fire is a very real danger with such hot and dry summers. You need to be careful not to throw cigarette ends into tinder-dry grass because you could cause the whole island to go up in flames. Sitting in any taverna you can see the island firefighters in their fire engine slowly driving around the island, ready to put out any fire that threatens. At night these patrols are made with the red lights flashing as the machine is driven along! Take the road to Limenaria at lunchtime and you will catch the fire crew having lunch in the shade of the trees around the tiny church of Santa Barbara! Take a look at the photo above!
For me there is no place as relaxing as this lovely island with everything in low key. Just watch out for lots of Greeks during August which is the popular holiday time in Athens and round about. You are only 20 miles from Athens despite the quietness around you.
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