Temple of Aphaia

This year we were determined to go back to the Temple of Aphaia in Aegina to visit both it and the little museum which shows off some of the items linked with it. Last year we found out that all greek museums close on Mondays! However, we took the Aegean Flying Dolphin to Aegina and made our way down to the bus terminus. I got our tickets and we got on the bus. It became what I can only describe as an experience. Pauline had already got on the bus and found all seats taken. We ended up sitting on a wheel arch for the whole journey! It was not funnu when the bus hit one of the many bumps along the journey.

Eventually we alighted outside the Temple and went to the booth to pay for our visit. As ever, the Temple looked absolutely fabulous and the place was very quiet. I ambled around and took some photos whilst Pauline found a place to sit in the shade of the tress that can be found on the south side of the site. Then we went in the museum. Pauline was having problems with her sciatic nerve abd could not stand still so I did the museum trip alone. It was fascinating.

I learned that Aphaia was rescued by a fisherman when King Minos was chasing her. She was a daughter of Zeus and had been living in Crete when the king took a shione to her. However, the fisherman took her to Aegina where she stayed. Like all good goddesses she got there and suddenly disappeared!

The Temple was built on the site of several other religious buildings on the site as is often the case. From the blocks of stone you find surrounding the place you discover that when the builders were placing a stone in position they could do so because they had previously cut a U shape in each end of the stone so that a rope could pass round it and be removed afterwards.

Quite a considerable amount of the building remains which makes the site worth visiting. Outside the site is a car park and from this point you can see part of the bay of Aghia Marina. As you look out you notice on the right a huge complex that has not been finished. The local Greeks have left this huge complex obviously unfinished as a sort of monument to the Greek Colonels who used to run the country. They say, "It was to be built with Junta money!" That is enough to make any Greek put a sour look on his face.

We caught the bus back to Aegina Town and then a Dolphin back to Anghistri. it had been another lovely visit to our Temple! We had added another part of Greek history to our experince. Back we sailed to Anghistri an da the quiet world of reality.

Aponisos

Aponisos is a place in Anghistri to which many people go to swim in the crystal clear waters of the Saronic Gulf. The only structure that exists there is an old taverna where visitors can order lunch and look out on a beautiful view. No power lines stretch as far as Aponisos so the only power available is generated in a diesel generator among the trees. There is a tiny beach from which you can swim as well as a small group of sunbeds on the tiny island there and they boast a special gangway into the water.

The local fishing boats used by people who live in nearby Limenaria are tied up at Aponisos. They are painted in various colours and form a very pretty picture tied up in a row by the small causeway that connects the island from Anghistri. Beyond the tiny island is a larger island consisting of two steep hills. At the top of one hill you can see a small Greek Orthodox church. How you can get up there I do not know. There appears to be no access on the landward side.

After a swim this year, we dried off and sat reading under the trees from where I took the picture at the head of this publication. Aponisos is visited these days by wealthy Greeks in motor yachts so the taverna has raised its game and today provides the best seafood in Anghistri. Anyone visiting the toilets there 20 years ago would have had a nasty shock. To say the facilities were basic would have been to tell a lie. The facilities at that time defied description! Today the loos are able to compete with any Greek establishment for tourism.

On the day we were there we partook of a lunch of fish, mussels and Greek salad. Once more it was memorable. We came away waxing poetic about the food we had just eaten. On the ride back (2 on a motor scooter!) to Megalohori we noted the island fire engine parked outside the tiny wayside church of Aghia Barbara. The crew always stop there under the trees for their packed lunch.

No holiday in Anghistri is complete without a visit to Aponisos and perhaps along the way to Dragonera where people camp out under the No Camping signs! These days there are many sunbeds provided there if you don't mind a pebble beach to swim from. To ride along that road with only the sound of a multitude of cicadas and the smell of pine resin in your nostrils is quite enjoyable.

It was a hot one this year!!!

This year, for the first time, we flew with Easyjet from Manchester to Athens. We had a bad start because it meant leaving home at 2.00am to drive to Manchester Airport and book in for a 7.00am flight. I had very little sleep and really paid for it all day on our travelling to Anghistri.

One problem was that when I originally booked the flights the response from Easyjet was "Urgent - if your details are incorrect when you check in you will not be able to fly!" This is a paraphrase but it scared me to death, even though I checked the details I gave at the time several times over. When we went to the baggage drop one suitcase was exactly 20 kilos which is the limit for Easyjet. At home it had weighed less than this. It was too close for comfort!

At Terminal 3 we found the food outlet were only able to provide a very limited offer of hot food and this was not good news either. However, my clever wife did some investigation to discover, in advance, the gate number so that we could be first in the Speedy Boarding queue. We were in poll position to get the front seats on the aircraft which then meant we could stretch out our legs during the flight.

Eventually we were all aboard the aircraft and the plane joined a lengthy take off queue. Eventually we took off half an hour late! The plane was staffed by cabin crew of a very young average age and who could not string a few words together so that we could tell what they were saying. Diction today is very poor among the younger end! However, we eventually landed at Athens Airport and reclaimed our cases reasonably quickly. Next we went to the little cabin outside Arrivals where I paid for 2 tickets on the express bus (1 hour 10 mins) to Piraeus. Having arrived at the port of Piraeus, we helped a Norwegian family to locate the ship that would take them to Aegina. Our next task was to get a bottle of water to cool our throats and then 2 tickets on the Flying Dolphin to Anghistri.

At the port of Mandraki we were met by Christos, joint owner of Hotel Boulas, and we and our luggage was whisked up the steep road to Room 10 where we unpacked. It was not long before we jumped in the swimming pool to refresh ourselves after a long day's travelling. We finished the day with a meal at Taverna o Fotis as we usually do and hit the sack. It took a further whole day to get over the effect of travelling from 2.00am to 5.00pm. Watch this space!

Anghistri here we come!

For the very first time we are flying with Easyjet this year. We have booked three weeks at the Hotel Boulas in Megalohori. We had intended this year to visit France by car but, by the time our health improved earlier in the year all places we had saved in Favourites were booked up! So we called Christos and booked in at the Boulas again.
We have been visiting Anghistri since our first time in 1988 and again for the first time we plan to take the hydrofoil to Piraeus and then the Metro to the Acropolis Museum which we understand is a wonderful place to go.
These days our health is not of the very best order and so we are careful as to how we can get about. Pauline has bursitis and I suffer from COPD. This can seriously limit our flexibility in getting around. However, one person I can count on being able to help is Taki, my great friend in Megalohori, who hires motor scooters. I shall talk to him and he will select a scooter suitable, not just for me, but also for Pauline.
These days, Taki also owns the only filling station on the island. So I shall get my fuel from him and when this happens we disappear into the office and he treats me to a Greek coffee! We then reminisce about how long we have known each other and what Taki has been doing in the winter months, supplying all the islanders with central heating fuel. I will tell him about Anglesey, the island in North Wales where we live.
The exercise we both need for our respective medical conditions is swimming. So we shall be in the hotel swimming pool soon after our arrival! Last year we did this and thought we were swimming in hot soup! Once more our first meal will be at Taverna O Fotis where we shall be greeted like long lost relatives by Fotis, his wife Katerina and daughter Vassu. As we get our first shopping at Supermarket Nontas we shall be greeted by Irene and Theo who own the business.
Taking a holiday in Anghistri is like returning to our home village to be greeted by those we have known a long time. Later we shall take a ride to Skala and the Quattro Bar and get a welcome from Alyson who works there. In the evening our choice will be Taverna Toxotis where our old friend Spiro will be in charge as usual, telling us that his son is now the boss! What a story!!!
We love to meet all our old friends and shop with them. Each morning I take a walk into the village to buy bread from Vangelis, the baker. Each time he asks, "Soft White?" and I nod. He knows which bread we like best. Whenever we take the Aegean Dolphins hydrofoil we see Kiriakos who describes our Samsonite luggage as "four wheel drive!" Kiriakos is an Anghistri man who is married to Diane, a French Canadian who used to run a travel agency in Anghistri. It was Diane who arranged our trip to Crete a few years ago whilst we were staying in Anghistri.
So many, many friends we see whenever we go back. Little wonder that lst year whilst seeing everyone safely from the hydrofoil, Yannis Logothetis greeted us by saying "Welcome home!" A welcome to Anghistri is the most sincere welcome we know!

Winter in Anghistri

I have heard very many complaints about the weather and road conditions here in the United Kingdom. But what has the weather been like in Anghistri while this has been happening? Late spring in 2009 saw a Facebook message from Anghistri saying the weather was unusually hot and wondering what summer temperatures etc would be. Well, we were there in August and it was hot as it always is at that time.

As winter began to tighten its grip here at home there were messages again coming from Anghistri to say it was unseasonably warm. Christmas and New Year exceeded normal expectations with good temperatures. I think it was 23 degrees in the shade on New Years Day! Only later did the temperatures plummet to normal. Recently I have watched their temperatures improve yet again. Tomorrow's (Monday 1 Feb) forecast is for 16 degrees!

Here, in Anglesey, we have cold weather but we had only one day when it snowed in any serious way. It happened to be the day I was coming home from hospital after a week there with a chest infection! Thanks to my neighbour and his 4 x 4 I made it! Had I been in Greece my only problem would have been whether the ferries and Flying Dolphins were sailing.

When people visit hot countries in summertime they wish they could live there all the time. But in winter they might just think again. By Greek standards they will experience cold and draughts will seek them out wherever they are. We have often been in Anghistri in September and quite often we have had a day or two when we have needed warm clothes. I have a photo of my wife in 2008 wearing borrowed Christmas socks. At the time I was wearing a borrowed fleece!

But not to worry, summer is approaching and the crowds will soon be flocking in search of sun etc. I think we might not be going to Anghistri this year as we are wanting to see some of France. But we shall always have the island in our thoughts!

Old Friends

Each year that we visit Anghistri we have our first evening meal at Taverna o Fotis. Our first holiday there was in 1988 when we purchased a package holiday with Sun Med. At that time the tavernas were patronised chiefly by English tourists. Taverna o Fotis was no exception and it was noticeable how those with a good sense of humour congregated here. The taverna looked much as it does today except there was then no wall between the tables and the street. Today it looks more modern but yet is still the same in most ways.

Our first impression was that it appeared to be very traditional from what we had heard about tavernas. For instance, there was no printed menu, so when you were asked by Dimitri, the son of Fotis, if you would like to see the menu, you were being invited into the kitchen to see the food before preparation. Dimitri was then 12 years old and used to work in the taverna with his 8 year old sister, Vassu, because they spoke good English and their parents had very little English. This continues to be the case, but over the years I have realised that Fotis himself understands English quite well but has difficulty speaking it.

His wife, Katerina, presided over the taverna, and reminded us of "Bloody Mary", the character from South Pacific with her loud cackle and the severe bun in her hair. As we looked at the food in the kitchen, we chose veal. Katerina was in the kitchen and said, "Is very good - in Greek is polikola." When the veal came to the table it tasted very good and we were pleased with it. The following night we went there again and ordered two "Polikola". This caused puzzlement for Dimitri who was taking the order. The answer was that Katerina had said the previous evening that the Greek word for very good was Polikola! We were asking for two very goods!!!

Over the years we became used to Fotis and Katerina and the noticeable thing about Fotis was that he always wore denim jeans and the crotch was very low indeed. Whenever we arrived there for our first meal he would come and shake hands with us. One year he actually spoke English, "No watter!" There were obviously water supply problems on the island. On one occasion I stopped by the taverna to say hello and asked where Katerina was. The answer was, "Katerina oregano." Waving his arm in a certain direction, he was telling me she was picking oregano. It turns out that there is a church service each September to celebrate Holy Cross and all the worshippers turned up at church with bunches of oregano. That was why Katerina was picking some.

One year we were invited to a big feast at the taverna to celebrate the 21st birthday of Susannah, wife of the watersports man, Robert. Fotis had spit roasted a full lamb on his barbecue and it was shared out among about 30 diners at tables set in a line down the side street. On another occasion we held the annual Petanque match down this street and kept ourselves fortified with beer from the taverna. The match is stilled played out each year between the English tourists from Skala and Megalohori each September.

The photo at the top of this blog shows Fotis sitting at the door of the taverna. This year he became 70 years old and Katerina 62. I discovered this from talking to Vassu, herself now 29 years old. Each year when we arrive Fotis and Katerina make a great fuss of us as they welcome us home! Vassu speaks excellent English so she is our interpreter. This family have now become a true part of us. One year when we arrived to stay in the house of Athena, our friend Dina's sister, we sat on the terrace as a funeral procession went by with an open coffin. In the crowd of mourners was Katerina who was waving and smiling to us as she walked by! It made it feel like a carnival event.

Another regular feature of our visits to Anghistri is my trip each day to the bakers for a loaf of fresh bread. The bread we buy there is wonderful to taste. I always get a welcome from Vangellis, the village baker when I go to his shop for the first time. Sometimes, in the evening, he sits outside with a friend. "Kallispera, Vangelli!" I call and he smiles and reciprocates.

My greatest friend there though is Taki who rents bikes and motor bikes opposite Taverna o Fotis. Taki always gives me a special greeting and allows me special discount when I hire a motor scooter. When I call at his petrol station for fuel I get an invite to the office where we sit and share a Greek coffee and have a long chat. Last year we arrived in the port from our visit to Rhodes and needed a lift up into the village. I couldn't raise Christos from our hotel so I rang Taki and he picked us up in his small petrol tanker.

All these people we count as important friends and it is wonderful to meet up with them each year. We now say it is a visit home rather than a holiday. This so very true.

Ellie Experiences Greece

From the time we booked the flights we thought how much Ellie would love to see a different way of life. We tried to anticipate her reactions to certain things and the people we know in Anghistri. "It will, at least, interest her" we thought.

We thought the worst bit would be adapting to the toilet arrangements whereby the toilet paper must be placed in the pedal bin and not down the loo. This was no problem, once her mum explained it before she left home. So she had three whole weeks of remembering to do it the Greek way and she did very well. Only once did I catch her out and there was no return on her investment!

We had wondered how she would react to flying but that was taken in her stride. The first trip on a hydrofoil was another area of doubt but that proved to be no problem. "This is fine" we thought, "she is adapting very well." In fact she made not a single complaint. This might have been because she was being polite.

Next we decided to ask how she rated this and that. "What do you think of the swimming pool?" She answered, "It's OK." "What do you think of the food?" "OK." What do you think of the people here?" "OK." "What do you think about the village?" "OK." "What do you think of the village church?" "OK." We visited numerous tavernas and asked her opinion. "OK." We took her swimming at Aponisos, a lovely setting with views to the Pelopponese. "OK." Then we took the inter island ferry over to Aegina and took her to see the beautiful ruined Temple of Aphaia. "OK." Eventually, "Have you enjoyed your holiday?" "OK."

After travelling home we were speaking to her mum on the telephone. Ellie had waxed poetic about the whole thing! She had told her mum and dad about the lovely people, the cute village, beautiful Aponisos, great food, lovely view from our balcony, and what a fantastic place the Temple of Aphaia was!!!!!

Thank God we had this confirmation of her enjoyment.

Eleanor in the Swimming Pool

It was apparent from the start that Ellie's first love was the swimming pool at Hotel Boulas. It was also apparent that she was sticking to her grandma like glue. She was not very keen on swimming in the pool if her grandma was not with her. Out of the pool, it was the same. Everywhere that Pauline went you could be sure Ellie was only a yard away! This tended to place a burden on Pauline. The solution was found in the afternoon of our first day when I stayed in the pool after Pauline climbed out. Ellie was happy to stay in the water if I was with her. I think it was rather overwhelming with all the Greeks there on holiday.

She also clicked with me when I started to show her the technique for diving under the water. At first she could only launch herself forward on the surface of the water. It was necessary to bend downwards if she was going to dive below the surface. Quite soon she began to go below the surface, but didn't achieve the bend of the body very well. But it was fun to share it all with her. She was quite impressed with my ability to swim the length of the pool on one breath. It was just a matter of not panicking or trying to take too big a breath.

Later that day she was very impressed with the food at Taverna Theris. She ordered a funghi pizza and she loved it. Mind you, she was very surprised that it rained very heavily that night for about 20 minutes. The table had to be pulled under cover to keep us dry. It was soon after this that Ellie broke her flip flops and couldn't walk back to Hotel Boulas up the steep steps. However, I mentioned the problem to Katerina from the taverna and she sent her daughter-in-law after Ellie with some ribbons to tie her flipflop to her foot. The problem was solved!

This problem arose from buying very cheap flipflops and she made sure she wore the sort that would not fall apart afterwards. Earlier that night Ellie made the discovery that she loved fried squid! From now on she would make comparisons between how tavernas made fried squid. Much later during the holiday we sailed across to Aegina, four miles away, and at lunch time discovered the excellent quality of the street taverna outside the fish market. Ellie didn't like the squid as much this time because it was grilled. I thought it was wonderful!

Mind you, I am a great lover of traditional Greek food. I have grown very fond of grilled Octopus. One year we shared a meal of octopus, mussels, and squid at Aponisos in Anghistri and it tasted fantastic. As this holiday progressed, Ellie kept making her comparison for squid with Taverna Theris. She also found how much she enjoyed tzatziki and I got severe looks if I had a taste!

It soon became obvious that Ellie was enjoying her first holiday abroad. She had conquered her initial doubts about flying and also sailing. This was to be a great holiday for her and it caused us to be very happy. When you introduce someone to a place you love there is not always a guarantee that it will work. But it did.

Welcome Home!

On Wednesday 5th August we drove over to Rochdale to pick up our granddaughter, Eleanor, aged twelve years. We had a lovely meal at a Table Table restaurant and then checked in at a Travelodge for the night. Sadly, I cannot recommend that particular Travelodge as we had to haul our luggage up a flight of stairs and endure pathetic double glazing which kept me awake all night.

Next morning we set off for Manchester Airport to catch the 8.35am flight to Zurich and then on to Athens. As usual, we flew courtesy of Swiss Airlines. On approach to Zurich the overhead displays gave information on which gate we needed for our onward flight. This is always hepful. We flew the Zurich leg on an A319 and then took an A321 to Athens. There were no problems with luggage transferring with us. Having reclaimed our baggage at Athens we decided it was best to take a taxi to Piraeus in order to get the 6.30pm Flying Dolphin to Anghistri. The bus might have got us there but we didn't relish the idea of waiting until 8.30pm for the next sailing. In fact, the taxi ride was extremely quick as the driver took the motorway route. The bus ride would have been in excess of an hour and could have made us late had it encountered rush hour traffic along the way.

I bought the tickets at the Aegean Dolphins kiosk and then we waited for the hydrofoil to arrive. It was only at that point I decided to check I had the telephone number for Hotel Boulas in my mobile phone. Horror of horrors, it was not there! But I had remembered to pop their business card in my wallet. The snag here was that I needed the international code for Greece! This was solved with a visit to the Greek Tourist Board Office who gave me the code.

By the time I had the code the hydrofoil was in port and we boarded it for the hour's sail to Anghistri via the island of Aegina. Once on board I telephoned the hotel and Christos answered, "Ne?"(Greek for yes) I told him we were just leaving Pirieaus and he assured me he would pick us up at the port.

In almost no time we were disembarking at Anghistri and a voice said, "Welcome home!" There, standing by the gang plank was Yannis Logothetis, the local agent for Aegean Dolphins. We had known Yanni for 21 years and it was appropriate that it was he who welcomed us to the island. Christos stepped forward and we loaded our luggage in his van before driving up the steep hill to the village of Megalohori which means "great place" in Greek.

As soon as we were in our room we unpacked the swimming costumes and went down to the pool for a refreshing swim. It was almost 8.00pm! It must have been a very hot day because the water felt very warm indeed. Our holiday was beginning! After unpacking our luggage we walked round to the main street to the Taverna o Fotis for our evening meal. As usual, Fotis was there to greet us together with his daughter, Vassu. His wife, Katerina, was round at her sister's house. A few minutes later she arrived with her sister and the greetings began again. Katerina's greetings are legendary!

After a welcome meal we went back to our room and were soon asleep.

On our way again

On Thursday, 6th August we are once again heading for Anghistri. This time we are taking our oldest granddaughter, Eleanor (Ellie) with us. At first she was afraid of flying and didn't like the idea of sailing from Piraeus to Anghistri. After we had assured her that flying did not give you vertigo and a hydrofoil did not feel like a boat or ship she agreed to come with us. Very soon she was telling all her friends about her holiday plans.

For the past week or so she has been posting the countdown on Facebook. So on Thursday we shall leave Manchester for Zurich courtesy of Swiss Airlines. We shall stay in Zurich Airport for only 1 hour 20 minutes before leaving for the Greek capital, Athens. Once there we have to quickly reclaim our luggage and catch a bus or taxi to Piraeus. The plan is to be on board the 18.30 Flying Dolphin (as shown on the above picture) and in Anghistri within about 50 - 55 minutes. On arrival we will be met by Christos Anastasiou, owner of the Hotel Boulas, and be driven up from the port of Megalohori to the village and our room for the next 3 weeks.

Once we have packed we shall walk round to Taverna o Fotis and renew our acquaintance with Fotis and his characterful wife, Katerina. As usual, our interpreter will be Vassu, their daughter who speaks excellent English. Following this we shall turn in for the night.

Next day we shall be getting breakfast so it will be my job to walk round to the village baker, Vangelis, for a small soft white loaf. As always, Vangeli will say, "Welcome, welcome. How are you?" and we shall be part of the village for three weeks. Our supplies will come from Supermarket "Nontas" run by Theo, the son of Nontas who died a few years ago. Theo's wife is Irene and they are usually assited in the shop with Theo's mum on eighing duties. We have never known her name so we refer to her as Mrs Nontas.

Another friendship (not acquaintance this time) is that between myself and Taki (full name Panyotis Logothetis) who hires out bikes and scooters and runs the island petrol station. I have known him for 21 and when we first travelled to the island he was 21 years old and single. He has a lovely wife, Katerina, who helps him in his business. then there is Constantinos, his son, who is still at school. He is the most polite young man you could meet and he plays the bazuki.

Thursday will see the beginning of a long, relaxed holiday under the Greek sun with lots of cool dips in the swimming pool. I am sure Ellie will love it and I hope to hear this many times. Watch out, my friends, Keith and Pauline are coming!

Where to stay

Our first accommodation in Megalohori in 1988 was Hotel Dina with views right out towards Piraeus and the mainland of Greece. It was only on our second visit that I realised that in he hallway was an iced water machine. From then on I made good use of it. For one thing, the local water that comes through the tap is not recommended for drinking. For another, it is a great thirst quencher for those on holiday in a hot location.

Hotel Dina, like a number of other establishments was really apartments - not a hotel. But it was very central in the village and it was only 2 minutes to any shop or taverna in the centre. On a later occasion we decided to choose Hotel Boulas where it was possible to get breakfast in the bar which became a taverna in the evening. This was a good decision! We felt very comfortable here. Boulas boasted shower curtains and a defined shower area separate from the loo and washbasin. This helped control the water that always seemed to get everywhere at Dina.

Over the years we got to know our friends Donald and Dina Lofthouse. They lived in Derrbyshire, not too far from us. Dina had been born on Anghistri and two of her sisters lived in the village. So it was, when Don was ill (terminally, as it happened) we were asked if we would like to use the house next door to Hotel Dina which was the old family home of the Dede family. This was very comfortable and we loved it.

Then there was a break of a few years when we didn't visit Anghistri. But eventually we returned and this time we booked in at Hotel Boulas which by now had a swimming pool. It was a triumph and we loved it. Thus it was that we determined to stay at this hotel each time we came. We are now friends of the owners and we get looked after very well each time we arrive. Nowadays Pauline and I are restricted as to how far we can walk so we tend to lounge by the pool every day reading copious books .

There are a number of hotels and apartments on offer in Megalohori. Several hundred metres to the right as you leave the port is the apartment block we still know as Kitsolakis Apartments, named after the late father of Yannis Logothetis. Walk left at the port and you find Theris Apartments owned by George and Katerina. These are modern and up market from some of the other places. Further along you reach Hotel Nontas (pronounce the T as a D) and this is a very unusual shape. Theo Katsias, owner of Supermarket Nontas (his late father's nickname) is the proprietor. Just up the hill from here is Hotel Flisvos. Eventually you reach Hotel Dina after passing the little cemetery.

Take the hill directly leading from the port and the first building offering rooms is Hotel Milos owned by Yannis and Paniotis Logothetis. Around the village, if you ask, there are small old Greek houses available to rent for long or short periods. Quite a number of houses have been built which can be available to let for the summer if you so wish.

But, for us, there is nothing l;ike a stay in Hotel Boulas where Christos and Beverly welcome us and keep us entertained as we use their pool bar for refreshments each day. The photos show pool activity at Hotel Boulas. In the first I am swimming up the pool and in the second you can see Christos hard at work!

But come to Anghistri and let it worm its way into your affections as it has ours. You will not regret it.

Eating in Anghistri

Eating out on Greek Islands can vary and yet it can be monotonous. In many places you find that the local tavernas in your particular resort assume that everything comes lukewarm because that is the way Greeks prefer their food. It is not unknown to find that white wine has not been chilled but that red has! Reading a Greek taverna menu can also be real fun when you spot the amazing spelling mistakes. But just remember this - Greek is their first language and, what is more, they do not use the Latin alphabet.

In both 2006 and this year we visited other islands and noticed a variation in food offered and the professional style in which it was cooked. In 2006 we spent four days in Crete and located some exceptional cooking as well as recipes. This year we spent a week in Rhodes and sampled their versions of Greek cooking. Again we experienced different but good food. After saying this we come back to Anghistri to concern ourselves with their food.

Since first visiting here in 1988 there have been changes. In Megalohori the number of tavernas is less than it was. In Scala more tavernas have been opened as the reliance on tourism has increased over the years. In twenty years the method of dealing with wasps in tavernas has radically changed. The old way was to cut a plastic bottle in half, partially fill the remaining bottle with orange juice to attract the wasps and then place the tapered bottle neck upside down into the container. Thus the wasps easily got in but rarely got out. Today the purchase of insectocutors has changed all this and you are rarely bothered by insects.

The standard of hygiene has also made an upward leap and it is less likely that you will see a butcher's block that is black from too little cleaning! The local baker's shop has changed beyond recognition and it is a pleasure and a joy to go there for bread each morning. After all, there is nothing quite like a fresh loaf of bread each day made by Vangelis! When you see the trays of sweets such as baklava you fairly dribble at the thought of buying some.

Back to the tavernas. In Megalohori there are two in the centre of the village. "The Sailor" is a relative newcomer on the scene, having opened a few years after we started visiting. But the food there is homely, traditional and tasty. The eating area is completely al fresco and they open only in the evening. Their unique selling point is the takeaway service whereby you can pop in and order a donna kebab in pitta bread at the hatch on the end.

The other taverna has been there for many years and is open all year round. It is Taverna O Fotis. It is operated by Fotis and his wife Katerina. They are a delightful couple and welcome you with open arms each time you arrive on the island. Their welcome is genuine. Fotis' speciality is that his grills are done on a barbecue which he can fan into flame from being almost dead in minutes! Here again the food is traditional and straightforward. You can order the most wonderful lamb or pork chops and their souvlaki is excellent. Here there is no need to worry about ordering in English - their daughter, Vasu, speaks excellent English and calmly sorts out the whole process of getting the food to your table. Katerina speaks very little English whereas Fotis can understand everything yet finds it difficult to speak our language.

Going down the hill towards the port you will find a snack bar in Hotel Milos and a taverna up on the cliff overlooking the port. Down by the port itself is Taverna Theris run by another Katerina and her husband, George. Here the food is totally reliable again and I recommend whatever Katerina provides as "special of the day" - it is always top notch. The pair used to run a taverna called "Three Brothers" in the centre of the village in previous years and it was extremely popular. Later, George built Theris apartments by the port and Jimmy and Tina, a Scottish couple ran the taverna there for a few years with the help of their chef, Babis. A few years ago Jimmy became disabled and unable to continue so Katerina is now back in charge of the menu.

Further along the coast road towards Scala you will come to Hotel Ameryllis run by Yianni and Fanni, a delightful couple. The place is now well established and you can order plenty of Greek food here. It is also an excellent place to while away the hours over a beer or two during the day. Come to think of it, you might as well have lunch whilst you are here!

Over in Scala there are many tavernas and the one we recommend is Taverna Toxotis run by the indefatigable Spiro. These days he insists his son is the boss and he is taking it easy but don't let him fool you - he is still at the helm. Anything you eat here is good and worth going over from Megalohori for. You might also care to sample the food at Hotel Andreas where Andreas retains a great reputation for good food.

Two years ago we were celebrating our Ruby Wedding anniversary so we needed to have a special meal. Well, to make a long story short, we didn't organise things too well for that evening but we had already had an amazing seafood lunch at Aponisos in the seaside taverna there. On a previous occasion we had enjoyed a great fish lunch and hoped to do the same. But it was Sunday and there was no fish. Nil desperandum. I convinced Pauline to have a seafood lunch that included octopus which was a food she did not really enjoy. The food was a Greek Salad with dishes of mussels, calamari and octopus. I looked at the menu and asked which was the best white wine - it was the ONLY white wine! I took a chance, but asked Barbara, daughter of the owners, if the wine would be chilled. It certainly was - she arrived with an ice bucket complete with stand and a bottle of wine I would have recommended anywhere, anytime. I watched Pauline try the octopus and a smile came on her face. It turned out to be the best seafood meal for a long time. Sitting there in the shade with stunning views of the island opposite and beyond it the Pelopponese, we could have cried. This really was a meal to remember and to think it was forty years since we were married was great.

So, all in all, you can eat and eat well in Anghistri. Just make sure you keep ringing the changes or you will become bored at so much grilled food, even if it is good. Make sure you keep doing a round of your favourite tav ernas and it will be OK. If you feel like it you can adjourn to the bar on the way down to the port for coffee and Metaxa to finish off the evening. What could be better? During the day, if down by the swimming pool at Hotel Boulas, Christos will do you a lovely toastie to keep hunger away. Not only that but Christos can give you unlimited advice on cooking. He knows his subject! Give Anghistri a try - you will not regret it. But don't bother coming if you are after entertainment and gallons of beer in a disco. It aint that sort of island.

More About Anghistri

The above photos show what was and still is traditional transport for some islanders. The photo showing a mini truck at the bottom of a hill depicts an older version of the red truck by the sea at Aponisos. Most people use a car or van but there are still quite a number of these agricultural vehicles about - especially in the Limenaria area which includes Aponisos. They would never be taken off the island because they travel very slowly and would clog up the roads in a busy place like Aegina or the mainland.

If you go over to Limenaria you will see that agriculture remains the way of life, whereas tourism rules everywhere else. This year was the first year that I didn't see a donkey on the road from Limenaria to Aponisos. Now there is a mode of transport that certainly has diminished. We used to awake to the dulcet tones of a donkey braying on our first holiday. People used to have yards in which it was possible to find a donkey tethered. Sometimes you saw them tethered under trees out among the pines. If you saw a donkey working it was always carrying a huge load - not heavy, but very much outsize. Inevitably a man would be riding with his wife walking behind the beast.

The car has taken over, as you might expect. This followed the advent of the daily car ferries that started to call in a few years ago. This year, as we arrived and found no one to collect us on the quayside we discovered that Christos had been blocked in. He managed to get free and picked us up soon afterwards. It was, after all, August, and hundreds of Greeks were in residence.

There is one very common mode of transport that needs a mention. It is the motorbike/scooter. Many locals run ancient scooters and you wonder if the bikes are about to expire! As you might guess, they tend to be noisy, particularly at night. Many tourists, including myself, hire scooters during their stay. My good friend Taki is the man to see if you want a good scooter. They are all maintained well and you can trust his work. Costas is the man to see if you are staying in Scala. My friend, John Robinson, is restricted in how far he can walk and needs an elbow crutch to help him. His friend saw his need and provided a marvellous device for carrying the crutch whilst riding the scooter. It was a rainwater pipe with a bottom attached and all he had to do was insert the crutch and let in the clutch!!!

A number of us used to walk from Megalohori to Scala and back quite often but now have to make the journey on a scooter or not go at all. You see there are a number of tourists who return each year in September and we all chat to each other to find out how the years are treating us. We could be called the September Club!?

Because some of the roads are not very good and sometimes poorly maintained you have to be very careful. I have seen one or two nasty injuries caused by the bad road surface. One year Pauline and I pulled up at Aponisos and promptly fell of the scooter because the wheels were sliding on the loose gravel. How can you fall off when the bike has stopped? Answer: when the wheel slides in the gravel as you try to get off! I am happy to say the gravel in that place has now gone.

Anghistri described

Our old friend, Dina Lofthouse, who was born in Anghistri said one day, "A lot of people love my little island, don't they?" This said it all. For some years Pauline and I had experienced the let down of the British climate at holiday time. After three soggy weeks in Cornwall in 1986 Pauline snapped and said she was only going to consider holidays in the sun. We had heard a lot about Greece and so we chose Corfu in 1987 to see if we liked Greece. We did. The following year we came to Anghistri for the first time and then kept coming back.

On arrival in the village of Megalohori (or Mylos) I was wooed by the traditional houses and that was the net in which I was caught. Returning to Anghistri is about saying "Hello" to your friends each time. The people remember you and welcome you back. That is priceless! The warmth of the welcome and its sincerity are wonderful.

The island is pine-covered with four settlements: Megalohori (meaning "the great place"), Scala (meaning "ladder" after the arrangements for getting in and out of the old ferries on the beach there), Metochi and Limenaria. These are connected by a number of basic roads - some better than others. There is a bus service by way of a new larger bus that meets the hydrofoils that arrive in Mandraki harbour for Mylos. Passengers for Scala get on here and take a mile long ride to their accommodation.

These days there are many more cars than in 1988 - in high season it is possible to be blocked in! A tourist road train operates day and night, running from Scala to Limenaria via Mylos. On occasion I have seen it deputise for the bus and meet the hyudrofoils at Mylos. The island is very small and a fit person can walk anywhere with ease. The population is about 700 without summer visitors, so everyone knows everyone. The locals walk from house to house to see friends whenever they are free. Any evening you can see people being visited by friends and family.

Accommodation abounds in Scala where the tourist is best catered for with tavernas, cafes, sunbeds etc. A car ferry calls each day so it is possible to get there by driving if you are mad enough to fancy a trip across Europe to get here. A fast local ferry runs between Anghistri and its larger neighbour, Aegina, where you can get a ferry down the Pelopponese coast to Methana on the mainland and the island of Poros. This local ferry starts in Mandraki and calls in at Scala before crossing over to Aegina.

There are water taxis at Mandraki and Scala and it is possible to take a trip almost anywhere by this means. All you do is ring the number of the water taxi owner and if he is free you can speed over the water to a numbner of places. It is fun to use this service and enjoy zipping across the waves with the driver bouncing up and down on his special saddle type seat!

If you fancy getting about the island a little faster than walking speed you can hire a scooter for a day, a week, a fortnight or whatever. I can recommend my friend Paniotis Logothetis (known as Taki) who rents scooters and push bikes in Megalohori. He is the nicest guy I have ever met and we get on marvellously! Taki also owns and operates the only service station on the island. There you can see his pint size fuel tanker in which he supplies the boats who call at the island as well as central heating fuel out of season.

As I said earlier, the roads are basic and therefore need drivers to take care along them. Some are better than others and you need to watch out for a sudden change in quality as you drive around. For me there is no better ride than to go from Megalohori across to Aponisos via Limenaria. You ride through pine trees with a strong scent of the resin that flavours the Greek wine, Retsina. There are many views through the trees over the sea to the mainland and a photographer will be well rewarded.

Of course fire is a very real danger with such hot and dry summers. You need to be careful not to throw cigarette ends into tinder-dry grass because you could cause the whole island to go up in flames. Sitting in any taverna you can see the island firefighters in their fire engine slowly driving around the island, ready to put out any fire that threatens. At night these patrols are made with the red lights flashing as the machine is driven along! Take the road to Limenaria at lunchtime and you will catch the fire crew having lunch in the shade of the trees around the tiny church of Santa Barbara! Take a look at the photo above!

For me there is no place as relaxing as this lovely island with everything in low key. Just watch out for lots of Greeks during August which is the popular holiday time in Athens and round about. You are only 20 miles from Athens despite the quietness around you.

How to get to Anghistri

Twenty years ago it was very slow getting to Anghistri. The direct way was to catch the Manaras Express at 8.00am from Piraeus. This was a 2 hour sail from Piraeus and it called first at Scala before travelling further along to its terminus in the tiny port of Mandraki for Mylos or, to give the village its proper name, Megalohori. The one good thing was that the bus from the former Athens Airport took 20 minutes to reach Piraeus port. But there was still a long wait for the ferry.

Since then the Manaras Express has been sold. There was a pair of commercial catamarans that sailed from Scala to Piraeus and back but we needed transport to Mylos, a mile along the coast from Scala. By this time it was preferable to take a hydrofoil (Flying Dolphin) to the island of Aegina and then wait a couple of hours for the next sailing of the ferry to Anghistri.

But today all has changed again. The port of Mandraki has been enlarged. It took about 15 years from start to finish as money kept running out. I remember the first visit of the crane on a barge towed by a tug as the work began one September. Two years ago we used the enlarged port for the first time, a couple of months after the Orthodox Church priests had blessed it. The last catamaran was tied up, waiting for repairs which were carried out whilst we were there.

This year we could take a "Flying Dolphin" from Piraeus. This was operated by Hellenic Seaways who provide just two sailings each day via Aegina. But we had the pleasure of arriving at our own port for the first time. It was great!

Visitors to Anghistri flying from Manchester can take a direct flight (at night) three days a week by Olympic Airlines. The flight duration is just three hours forty five minutes, leaving Manchester at 10.15pm. Of course, Greek time being two hours ahead of GMT the local arrival time is 4.00am.

Your best bet now is, having collected your luggage, go for an early breakfast in the airport before boarding the all night express bus to Piraeus (X96) which takes just under an hour at that time. Walk out of the departure exit and turn right. Go along the pavement until you reach a small cabin where you can purchase your Piraeus ticket for 3.20 euros. Now you can get on the bus but do not forget to validate your ticket in the red machine on the bus.

We took the 5.30am express bus. You can check the time of the next bus inside the airport. Just look for a display similar to the check-in boards but smaller. Be sure to alight at the port because the new terminus is some distance away. In our case the driver called out when we reached the port. You can see lots of ships on the left of the bus. Cross the road to the port gate and turn left. Along here you will come to the ticket offices. Both Hellenic Seaways and Aegean Flying Dolphins have offices. Simply check who sails first and book with them. If money is an issue choose Aegean Flying Dolphins who charge 1 euro less for the sail.

Most visitors will be staying in Scala, so the island bus (a new big one!)meets each arrival to take passengers to the small resort. It could not be simpler. This year saw a road train introduced and if the bus is out of service the road train does the Scala run.

If you want a holiday where you do absolutely nothing at all then take rooms in Mylos. If you crave a slightly livelier time then you will be well looked after in Scala. More of the accommodation in a later blog.

My Other Favourite Island

May I introduce a lovely, quiet, Greek island? It is in the Saronic Gulf and lies a mear 20 miles from the city of Athens. There are 4 villages on the island and if an international airport were to be constructed there we should have no island left for inhabitants. In the past this island has been overlooked or disparaged by those who call themselves travel writers. My task is to show, through this blog, how wrong they are.

Pauline and I first visited the island courtesy of SunMed, a travel company known for their frank portrayals of Greek islands in their brochure, "Go Greek". It was in 1988 that we first set foot on Anghistri as I prefer to spell it. The "Go Greek" brochure told us it was a two hour sail to our destination from Piraeus. But in 1988 they decided to use a private boat called the "Kitsolakis Express" to transfer customers from a port called Trocadero via Aghia Marina on the island of Aegina. This followed a night flight from the UK. Needless to say I was at a low ebb as I boarded this boat which stank of diesel fuel. After two hours we offloaded those people staying in Aghia Marina on the far side of Aegina from Anghistri. It was a further hour before we embarked at the tiny port of Mandraki that serves Megalohori (or Mylos) on Anghistri.

We loaded our luggage in the correct reverse order for dropping off on a small pick up and walked slowly up the steep hill to the village where our rooms were. We were shattered! At the top of the hill I saw the village centre and exclaimed, "I like this place!" This was the start of a great love affair with this tiny Greek island that is still continuing. The difference between then and now is very marked and all for the good. Watch this space!!!!!

The Island of Anghistri

This blog is dedicated to the most alluring island I have ever visited. As the title suggests, there are three ways of spelling the name of the island in English. Two are based upon the local style whereby the name suggests the inclusion of an N. It is a place we have visited many times and one which draws us back, time after time. The population is only 700 out of season but swells to 4 figures when the sun is shining!

Athens is a mere 20 miles away and yet the island appears to be an isolated gem. There are no ruins to visit and little is known of its history. Three villages constitute the community - Skala, Megalohori and Limenaria. Skala is a classic but small summer resort where most visitors gravitate. It's name comes from the fact that when anyone wished to travel to the neighbouring island of Aegina, they had to take a boat from the beach using a ladder. Ladder, in Greek, is Skala, hence the name of this resort. Until very recently it was the main port for visiting Anghistri. Indeed it is the one to which the daily car ferry sails to collect passengers and vehicles. Megalohori is the capital and its centre is marked by a cafenion, a supermarket and the main church for the island. As for Limenaria, it has remained untouched as it is an inland community. There people still function within the small agricultural activities on this side of the island.

Since the opening and blessing of its new port in 2006, Megalohori has seen a vast improvement to its transfer services between the island and Piraeus, the port of Athens.